Some of the most striking fashion in South Africa is being made from things most people would throw away. Cape Town designer Kenan van Kooij has been getting attention for dresses built from plastic bottles and other waste materials.
Born in Rotterdam and now based in Cape Town, Kenan has been drawn to beauty, texture and self-expression for as long as he can remember. He graduated from a three-year fashion design diploma at the Design Academy of Fashion in Cape Town in 2023, then set his sights on a career in Europe. Nature is a major source of inspiration for him.
His breakout piece, the Sashimi dress, went viral on Instagram earlier this year. It was made from upcycled plastic bottles collected from local restaurants, and took six months to make, according to one report.
He sourced the bottles from friends, family and local restaurants, then cleaned and cut them into shapes, and melted and moulded them. The process gave the plastic a flexible, jewel-like structure that gives the dress its sparkle. He described the work as experimental modular innovation using recycled plastic bottles. Commenters praised his creativity and some even suggested he design something for Grammy-winning star Tyla.
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His latest piece, the Red Snapper dress, has pushed him back into the spotlight. He posted a behind-the-scenes video on Instagram showing how it was made from waste materials. In the clip, he walks viewers through the design process in a self-filmed talking-head format, intercut with dramatic footage of the final photoshoot. South Africans were stunned by the finished look, and many said it deserved a spot on the Met Gala red carpet.
Kenan has also been open about how small his operation is. Asked about his team, he said that right now, it’s just him.
For a designer working with discarded materials and a one-man studio, the response shows how much appetite there is for sustainable fashion made in South Africa. Fans can follow his work on Instagram.
